Kev saib xyuas hnub ci, thiab tshwj xeeb tshaj yog tiv thaiv tshav ntuj, yog ib qho ntawmntu loj hlob sai tshaj plaws ntawm kev lag luam tu tus kheej.Tsis tas li ntawd, kev tiv thaiv UV tam sim no tau muab tso rau hauv ntau yam khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce txhua hnub (piv txwv li, cov khoom tu tawv nqaij thiab cov tshuaj pleev ib ce zoo nkauj), vim tias cov neeg siv khoom paub ntau ntxiv tias qhov yuav tsum tau tiv thaiv lawv tus kheej los ntawm lub hnub tsis tsuas yog siv rau hnub so puam. .
Hnub no lub hnub tu formulatoryuav tsum ua kom tiav qib siab SPF thiab nyuaj rau cov qauv tiv thaiv UVA, thaum tseem ua cov khoom lag luam muaj txiaj ntsig txaus los txhawb cov neeg siv khoom raws li cov neeg siv khoom, thiab cov nqi tsim nyog txaus kom muaj nuj nqis nyob rau lub sijhawm nyuaj nyiaj txiag.
Kev ua tau zoo thiab kev zoo nkauj yog qhov tseeb nyob ntawm ib leeg; kev ua kom zoo tshaj plaws ntawm cov khoom siv uas siv tau ua rau cov khoom siv SPF siab los tsim nrog tsawg kawg ntawm cov ntxaij lim dej UV. Qhov no tso cai rau tus tsim kev ywj pheej ntau dua los ua kom pom kev zoo ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Hloov pauv, cov khoom lag luam zoo nkauj txhawb kom cov neeg siv khoom siv ntau cov khoom thiab yog li tau los ze zog rau cov ntawv sau npe SPF.
Cov cwj pwm ua tau zoo los xav txog thaum xaiv UV lim rau cov qauv tshuaj pleev ib ce
• Kev nyab xeeb rau pab pawg neeg siv kawg- Tag nrho cov ntxaij lim dej UV tau raug kuaj xyuas kom ntseeg tau tias lawv muaj kev nyab xeeb rau kev siv tshuaj pleev ib ce; Txawm li cas los xij, qee cov tib neeg rhiab heev tuaj yeem muaj kev tsis haum rau qee hom UV lim.
• Kev ua tau zoo SPF- Qhov no yog nyob ntawm lub wavelength ntawm lub absorbance siab tshaj plaws, qhov loj ntawm lub absorbance, thiab qhov dav ntawm lub absorbance spectrum.
• Broad spectrum / UVA tiv thaiv kev ua tau zoo- Cov tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub niaj hnub no yuav tsum tau ua kom tau raws li cov qauv kev tiv thaiv UVA, tab sis qhov feem ntau tsis to taub zoo yog tias kev tiv thaiv UVA kuj ua rau muaj txiaj ntsig rau SPF.
• cuam tshuam rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij- Cov ntxaij lim dej sib txawv UV muaj qhov sib txawv ntawm cov tawv nqaij; Piv txwv li qee cov lim dej UV tuaj yeem hnov "nplaum" lossis "hnyav" ntawm daim tawv nqaij, thaum cov dej-soluble lim ua rau cov tawv nqaij qhuav.
• Cov tsos ntawm daim tawv nqaij- Cov lim dej inorganic thiab cov khoom siv organic tuaj yeem ua rau cov tawv nqaij dawb thaum siv cov concentration siab; Qhov no feem ntau yog qhov tsis xav tau, tab sis hauv qee qhov kev siv (xws li kev saib xyuas menyuam yaus hnub ci) nws tuaj yeem pom tau tias yog qhov zoo dua.
• Photostability- Ntau cov organic UV cov ntxaij lim dej lwj thaum raug UV, yog li txo lawv cov txiaj ntsig; tab sis lwm cov lim dej tuaj yeem pab txhim kho cov "photo-labile" cov ntxaij lim dej thiab txo lossis tiv thaiv kev lwj.
• Dej tsis kam- Kev suav nrog dej-raws li UV lim nrog cov roj-raws li feem ntau muab kev txhawb nqa tseem ceeb rau SPF, tab sis tuaj yeem ua rau nws nyuaj dua kom ua tiav dej-tiv taus.
» Saib tag nrho cov khoom lag luam muaj nyob rau hauv Sun Care Cov khoom xyaw & cov chaw muag khoom hauv Cosmetic Database
UV Filter Chemistry
Cov tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub ua haujlwm feem ntau yog cais raws li cov tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub organic lossis cov tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub tsis muaj zog. Organic sunscreens nqus tau zoo ntawm cov wavelengths tshwj xeeb thiab pob tshab kom pom lub teeb. Inorganic sunscreens ua haujlwm los ntawm kev cuam tshuam lossis tawg ntawm UV hluav taws xob.
Cia peb kawm txog lawv tob tob:
Organic tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub
Organic sunscreens kuj hu uatshuaj pleev thaiv hnub. Cov no muaj cov organic (carbon-based) molecules uas ua haujlwm ua cov tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub los ntawm kev nqus UV hluav taws xob thiab hloov mus rau lub zog cua sov.
Organic Sunscreens Strengths & Weaknesses
| Lub zog | Tsis muaj zog |
| Cosmetic elegance - feem ntau cov organic lim, ua kua los yog soluble solids, tawm tsis pom residue ntawm daim tawv nqaij tom qab daim ntawv thov los ntawm ib tug formulation | Nqaim spectrum - ntau tsuas yog tiv thaiv dhau qhov nqaim wavelength ntau yam |
| Cov tshuaj organic tau nkag siab zoo los ntawm cov neeg tsim khoom | "Cocktails" xav tau rau siab SPF |
| Kev ua tau zoo ntawm qhov qis qis | Qee hom khoom yuav nyuaj rau yaj thiab khaws cia hauv kev daws |
| Cov lus nug txog kev nyab xeeb, kev chim siab thiab kev cuam tshuam ib puag ncig | |
| Qee cov lim dej organic yog cov duab tsis ruaj khov |
Organic sunscreens Daim ntaub ntawv
Organic lim tuaj yeem siv rau hauv txhua yam kev saib xyuas lub hnub / UV tiv thaiv cov khoom tab sis tej zaum yuav tsis zoo tagnrho rau cov khoom siv rau cov menyuam mos los yog cov tawv nqaij rhiab vim qhov muaj peev xwm ua xua rau cov tib neeg rhiab heev. Lawv kuj tsis tsim nyog rau cov khoom ua "natural" lossis "organic" thov raws li lawv yog txhua yam tshuaj hluavtaws.
Organic UV Filters: Tshuaj hom
PABA (para-amino benzoic acid) derivatives
• Piv txwv: Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA
• UVB lim
• Tsis tshua muaj siv tam sim no vim muaj kev txhawj xeeb txog kev nyab xeeb
Salicylates
• Piv txwv: Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate
• UVB lim
• Tus nqi qis
• Kev ua tau zoo tsawg piv rau lwm cov lim dej feem ntau
Cinnamates
• Piv txwv: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Iso-amyl Methoxycinnamate, Octocrylene
• Cov lim dej UVB zoo heev
• Octocrylene yog photostable thiab pab yees duab-stabilise lwm yam UV lim, tab sis lwm yam cinnamates zoo li tsis zoo photostability
Benzophenones
• Piv txwv li: Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4
• Muab ob qho tib si UVB thiab UVA nqus
• Kev ua tau zoo tsawg tab sis pab txhawb SPF nrog rau lwm cov lim dej
• Benzophenone-3 tsis tshua muaj siv nyob hauv Europe niaj hnub no vim muaj kev txhawj xeeb txog kev nyab xeeb
Triazine thiab triazole derivatives
• Piv txwv: Ethylhexyl triazone, bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
• Ua tau zoo heev
• Ib txhia yog UVB lim, lwm tus muab broad spectrum UVA/UVB tiv thaiv
• Zoo heev photostability
• Nqis
Dibenzoyl derivatives muaj
• Piv txwv: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDM), Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB)
• Ua tau zoo heev UVA absorbers
• BMDM muaj cov duab tsis zoo, tab sis DHHB yog cov duab ntau dua
Benzimidazole sulfonic acid derivatives
• Piv txwv: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (PBSA), Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (DPDT)
• Dej-soluble (thaum neutralized nrog lub hauv paus tsim nyog)
• PBSA yog UVB lim; DPDT yog UVA lim
• Feem ntau qhia kev sib koom ua ke nrog cov lim roj-soluble thaum siv ua ke
Camphor derivatives
• Piv txwv li: 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor
• UVB lim
• Tsis tshua muaj siv tam sim no vim muaj kev txhawj xeeb txog kev nyab xeeb
Anthranilates
• Piv txwv: Menthyl anthranilate
• UVA lim
• Kev ua tau zoo tsawg
• Tsis pom zoo nyob teb chaws Europe
Polysilicone-15
• Silicone polymer nrog chromophores nyob rau sab chains
• UVB lim
Inorganic tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub
Cov tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub no tseem hu ua cov tshuaj tiv thaiv lub cev. Cov no muaj xws li inorganic particles uas ua hauj lwm raws li cov tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub los ntawm absorbing thiab scattering UV hluav taws xob. Inorganic sunscreens muaj xws li cov hmoov qhuav los yog pre-dispersions.
Inorganic sunscreens Strengths & Weaknesses
| Lub zog | Tsis muaj zog |
| Safe / non-irritant | Kev nkag siab ntawm kev zoo nkauj tsis zoo (skinfeel thiab whitening ntawm daim tawv nqaij) |
| Dav spectrum | Cov hmoov tuaj yeem nyuaj rau kev tsim nrog |
| High SPF (30+) tuaj yeem ua tiav nrog ib qho nquag (TiO2) | Inorganics tau ntes tau nyob rau hauv kev sib cav nano |
| Dispersions yog ib qho yooj yim rau kev koom ua ke | |
| Photostable |
Daim ntawv thov Inorganic Sunscreens
Inorganic sunscreens yog tsim rau txhua daim ntawv thov kev tiv thaiv UV tshwj tsis yog cov qauv tsim los yog cov tshuaj tsuag aerosol. Lawv tshwj xeeb tshaj yog haum rau cov me nyuam lub hnub saib xyuas, cov khoom rhiab ntawm daim tawv nqaij, cov khoom ua "natural" thov, thiab cov tshuaj pleev ib ce zoo nkauj.
Inorganic UV lim hom tshuaj
Titanium Dioxide
• Feem ntau yog UVB lim, tab sis qee qib kuj muab kev tiv thaiv UVA zoo
• Ntau qib muaj nrog ntau qhov sib txawv, txheej txheej thiab lwm yam.
• Feem ntau cov qib poob rau hauv thaj tsam ntawm nanoparticles
• Cov khoom me me tshaj plaws yog pob tshab ntawm daim tawv nqaij tab sis muab kev tiv thaiv UVA me ntsis; Qhov loj dua muab kev tiv thaiv UVA ntau dua tab sis ua kom tawv nqaij ntau dua
Zinc Oxide
• Feem ntau yog UVA lim; Kev ua tau zoo ntawm SPF qis dua TiO2, tab sis muab kev tiv thaiv zoo dua li TiO2 nyob rau thaj tsam ntev wavelength "UVA-I"
• Ntau qib muaj nrog ntau qhov sib txawv, txheej txheej thiab lwm yam.
• Feem ntau cov qib poob rau hauv thaj tsam ntawm nanoparticles
Kev ua tau zoo / Chemistry matrix
Tus nqi ntawm -5 txog +5:
-5: Qhov cuam tshuam loj heev | 0: tsis muaj teebmeem | +5: muaj txiaj ntsig zoo
(Faj seeb: rau tus nqi thiab kev ntxuav hniav dawb, "cov nyhuv tsis zoo" txhais tau hais tias tus nqi lossis xim dawb yog nce.)
| Nqi | SPF | UVA | Tawv tawv | Ua kom dawb | Yees duab-stability | Dej | |
| Benzophenone-3 | -2 | +4 | +2 | 0 | 0 | +3 | 0 |
| Benzophenone-4 | -2 | +2 | +2 | 0 | 0 | +3 | 0 |
| Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine | -4 | +5 | +5 | 0 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| Butyl Methoxy-dibenzoylmethane | -2 | +2 | +5 | 0 | 0 | -5 | 0 |
| Diethylamino Hydroxy Benzoyl Hexyl Benzoate | -4 | +1 | +5 | 0 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone | -4 | +4 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimiazole Tetrasulfonate | -4 | +3 | +5 | 0 | 0 | +3 | -2 |
| Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA | -1 | +4 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +2 | 0 |
| Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate | -2 | +4 | +1 | -1 | 0 | -3 | +1 |
| Ethylhexyl Salicylate | -1 | +1 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +2 | 0 |
| Ethylhexyl Triazone | -3 | +4 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| Homosalate | -1 | +1 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +2 | 0 |
| Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate | -3 | +4 | +1 | -1 | 0 | -2 | +1 |
| Menthyl anthranilate hmoov | -3 | +1 | +2 | 0 | 0 | -1 | 0 |
| 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor | -3 | +3 | 0 | 0 | 0 | -1 | 0 |
| Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol | -5 | +4 | +5 | -1 | -2 | +4 | -1 |
| Octocrylene | -3 | +3 | +1 | -2 | 0 | +5 | 0 |
| Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid | -2 | +4 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +3 | -2 |
| Polysilicone-15 | -4 | +1 | 0 | +1 | 0 | +3 | +2 |
| Tris-biphenyl Triazine | -5 | +5 | +3 | -1 | -2 | +3 | -1 |
| Titanium Dioxide - pob tshab qib | -3 | +5 | +2 | -1 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| Titanium Dioxide - broad spectrum qib | -3 | +5 | +4 | -2 | -3 | +4 | 0 |
| Zinc Oxide | -3 | +2 | +4 | -2 | -1 | +4 | 0 |
Yam cuam tshuam rau kev ua haujlwm ntawm UV lim
Kev ua tau zoo ntawm titanium dioxide thiab zinc oxide sib txawv heev nyob ntawm tus kheej cov khoom ntawm cov qib tshwj xeeb siv, xws li. txheej, daim ntawv lub cev (hmoov, roj-raws li dispersion, dej-raws li dispersion).Cov neeg siv yuav tsum sab laj nrog cov neeg muag khoom ua ntej xaiv cov qib uas tsim nyog tshaj plaws kom ua tau raws li lawv cov hom phiaj kev ua tau zoo hauv lawv cov txheej txheem tsim.
Kev ua tau zoo ntawm cov roj-soluble organic UV lim yog cuam tshuam los ntawm lawv cov solubility hauv cov emollients siv hauv kev tsim. Feem ntau, polar emollients yog cov kuab tshuaj zoo tshaj plaws rau cov lim dej organic.
Kev ua tau zoo ntawm tag nrho cov ntxaij lim dej UV yog qhov cuam tshuam los ntawm kev coj tus cwj pwm rheological ntawm kev tsim thiab nws lub peev xwm los tsim ib qho yeeb yaj kiab, coherent ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Kev siv cov yeeb yaj kiab-formers thiab rheological additives feem ntau pab txhim kho kev ua tau zoo ntawm cov lim dej.
Kev sib xyaw ua ke ntawm UV lim (synergies)
Muaj ntau qhov sib xyaw ua ke ntawm UV lim uas qhia kev sib koom ua ke. Qhov kev sib koom ua ke zoo tshaj plaws feem ntau yog ua tiav los ntawm kev sib txuas cov lim dej uas sib xyaw ua ke hauv qee txoj kev, piv txwv li: -
• Ua ke cov roj-soluble (los yog roj-dispersed) lim nrog dej-soluble (los yog dej-dispersed) lim
• Muab cov ntxaij lim dej UVA nrog UVB lim
• Kev sib xyaw cov lim dej tsis zoo nrog cov lim dej organic
Kuj tseem muaj qee qhov kev sib txuas ua ke uas tuaj yeem ua rau lwm cov txiaj ntsig, piv txwv li nws paub zoo tias octocrylene pab kom cov duab-stabilize qee cov duab-labile lim xws li butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.
Txawm li cas los xij ib qho yuav tsum nco ntsoov txog cov cuab yeej kev txawj ntse hauv cheeb tsam no. Muaj ntau patents npog cov kev sib txuas tshwj xeeb ntawm UV cov ntxaij lim dej thiab cov qauv tsim tau qhia kom nco ntsoov xyuas tias kev sib xyaw ua ke uas lawv npaj siab yuav siv tsis cuam tshuam nrog lwm tus neeg patents.
Xaiv txoj cai UV lim rau koj cov qauv tshuaj pleev ib ce
Cov kauj ruam hauv qab no yuav pab koj xaiv qhov zoo UV lim rau koj cov tshuaj pleev ib ce:
1. Teem lub hom phiaj meej rau kev ua tau zoo, cov khoom zoo nkauj thiab cov phiaj xwm kev thov rau kev tsim.
2. Xyuas seb cov lim dej twg tso cai rau lub lag luam npaj.
3. Yog tias koj muaj ib lub chassis tshwj xeeb uas koj xav siv, xav txog seb cov lim dej twg yuav haum nrog lub chassis. Txawm li cas los xij yog tias ua tau nws yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws los xaiv cov lim dej ua ntej thiab tsim cov qauv tsim nyob ib puag ncig lawv. Qhov no yog tshwj xeeb tshaj yog muaj tseeb nrog inorganic los yog particulate organic lim.
4. Siv cov lus qhia los ntawm cov chaw muag khoom thiab / lossis cov cuab yeej twv ua ntej xws li BASF Sunscreen Simulator txhawm rau txheeb xyuas cov kev sib txuas uas yuav tsum tau ua.ua tau raws li qhov xav tau SPFthiab UVA lub hom phiaj.
Cov kev sib txuas no tuaj yeem raug sim hauv cov qauv. In-vitro SPF thiab UVA cov txheej txheem kuaj tau muaj txiaj ntsig nyob rau theem no los qhia qhov kev sib txuas ua ke muab qhov txiaj ntsig zoo tshaj plaws ntawm kev ua haujlwm - cov ntaub ntawv ntxiv ntawm daim ntawv thov, kev txhais thiab kev txwv ntawm cov kev xeem no tuaj yeem sau nrog SpecialChem e-kev cob qhia chav kawm:UVA/SPF: Optimizing koj Test Protocols
Cov txiaj ntsig kev xeem, nrog rau cov txiaj ntsig ntawm lwm qhov kev ntsuam xyuas thiab kev ntsuas (xws li kev ruaj ntseg, kev tiv thaiv kev ua tau zoo, kev xav ntawm daim tawv nqaij), ua kom tus tsim qauv xaiv cov kev xaiv zoo tshaj plaws thiab tseem qhia txog kev txhim kho ntxiv ntawm cov qauv.
Post lub sij hawm: Jan-03-2021